Haji Ali Dargah: A place of peace, love, respect and unity

Shahazade Akhtar

Haji Ali Dargah in the evneing
Haji Ali Dargah in the evening. PC: Shahazade Akhtar

White dome, beautiful minarets and a huge gate with the blue sky and water in its surroundings, making it a heavenly place. The place does not need any introduction. We all know that it is Haji Ali Dargah, a shrine of a Muslim saint Sayed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari.

After walking around 200 meters on 9-10 feet wide road connecting this beautiful place to the mainland we reach a huge gate. It seems to have opened its arm for each and every one of us. The view of the beautiful dome from this gate is mesmerizing. So many photographers will surround you here, hankering to photograph you with this beautiful background. The interesting thing here is that when they show you some pictures captured by them, it tells you how your picture will turn out. Most of the time they show photos of celebrities that shows their marketing skill as it draws people to get their photo clicked.

As soon as you walked into the main gate you feel something different in you. You experience a different aura there. Your eyes start exploring the place but fix at one place which is the main room where the saint is resting.

Haji Ali Dargah on a cloudy day
Haji Ali Dargah on a cloudy day. PC: Shahazade Akhtar

It has been almost 10 years since I have been in Mumbai. I regularly visit this place. After completing my prayer in the main room where the saint is resting, I try to find a place where I can sit and give some time to myself as this place gives me an opportunity for self-reflection . I always find mental peace and feel rejuvenated whenever I visit this peaceful place.

minraret of haji ali mosque
Minaret of Haji Ali mosque. PC: Shahazade Akhtar

There is a space for Qawwals (the religious singers). The crowd surrounds them to listen to words of praise (for the saints) in beautiful tunes. I have seen people moving their legs and hands in rhythm to the tune. Even people from different countries get attached with the Qawwalis (religious song) and they also swing their body to the tune. The amazing thing here is that the foreigners do not know Hindi or Urdu but magically they relate to the tune.

People from every corner of the country come here to visit and for votive offerings, praying and spending some time. People come here with their friends, family and sometimes alone also. This way they get a chance to spend some quality time with their loved ones which, most of the time, becomes difficult because of our modern and busy lives. People go into the water despite knowing that stones with sharp edges will welcome them. They are not afraid of this and get into the water to enjoy and have fun. It is always good to see people with happy faces. This becomes a special day especially for the children.

India is a country of rich culture and diversity is its uniqueness. I find people from different walks of life visiting this place. I have seen people with turbans on their heads, people with cross pendent around their necks, people with tilak (vermillion mark) on their forehead, people with black skin, people with white skin, men, women, transgender etc. at this place. This place teaches me so many things. Every saint has opened his arms for everyone irrespective of their religion, caste, gender, race etc. They teach us to accept and respect everyone. You would not find the word ‘hate’ when you read their lives. When these great saints have not shown different behaviour to different people then why do we? Why are we disrespecting people on the basis of caste, religion, race, gender, language etc.? Why don’t we learn from the lives of these great saints and spread love?  Let us all take this learning and make this world a beautiful place where each and everyone is accepted and treated with love and respect. The world needs this change. Let us come forward and make this happen. Do not just visit such places; try to learn from the lives of these saints also.

Shahazade Akhtar is a management graduate working in the development sector in Mumbai. He likes to travel, read and watch movies. 

Yoga in Mumbai: a religious practice?

Charlotta Osterberg

yoga
The author practicing Yoga during Mahashivaratri in Mumbai. PC: Charlotta Osterberg

When I was 23-years old I moved from Finland to Mumbai with the intention to work with an NGO for three months. However, life had other plans for me and I settled in India for almost 10 years. During a challenging period when I was looking for something meaningful to do in the city, I attended my first yoga class, primarily just to have something to keep myself busy with. I never knew this would become my fulltime passion. Following this one class, I immersed myself in four years of practice and study of yoga.

What I learned during these years, apart from physical postures, was that traditional yoga is a philosophy, not a form of exercise, and further, that the relationship between yoga and religion is complicated. I will say a few words about the philosophy and the scriptures before returning to my experience in Mumbai.

Yoga and religion in the sutras

Yoga is one of the six orthodox schools of Indian philosophy – also sometimes referred to as Hindu philosophy. Yoga philosophy is derived from Samkhya philosophy, which is atheistic in nature and thus does not acknowledge the idea of a god. Peculiarly, the Patanjali Yoga Sutra – the “bible of yoga” as I like to call it, mentions the word Ishvara a few times. This gives rise to the question whether yoga is a theistic version of Samkhya philosophy.

The word Ishvara stems from the Sanskrit root Ish, which means “to govern”, but it also includes “the capacity to impart grace”. The term Ishvara can refer to a supreme god, or a local deity (Ishta-deva).

Ishvara is mentioned for example in sutra 1.23, wherein Patanjali gives us a shortcut to liberation (samadhi). Instead of persistent practice and non-attachment, the slow and steady path towards liberation, Patanjali gives an option and states Ishvara pranidhana va.  Depending on how we interpret this sutra, god can be ascribed the status of a supreme controller, or not.

Va simply means “or” since the sutra is providing an alternative to what has been previously mentioned. Pranidhana literally means, “putting something down, or “placing something nearby”. Commonly it is understood as “surrender”. “Ishvara Pranidhana” can therefore be interpreted as “complete surrender to God”, or more literally “placing oneself by God.”

If we interpret the word pranidhana in this way, god is given a somewhat similar meaning to that of a god in various religions. When a yoga disciple places himself/herself in full humility at the disposal of Ishvara, then Ishvara is entwined towards the disciple and imparts his grace onto him/her. The success of the yoga disciple depends upon the mercy of god.

However, pranidhana is also sometimes translated as “deep meditation”, and the sentence then means “meditation on god” (instead of surrender to god). If we are meditating on the concept of god, and through our individual meditative practice reach enlightenment, god is given a more symbolic status. God is not necessarily separate from ourselves, or someone giving us blessings, but a symbol used for our single-pointed concentration that will lead us towards liberation. This translation lets yoga keep a somewhat more secular nature. However, it doesn’t change the fact that god is mentioned.

The words Ishvar Pranidhana also figures as one of the five Niyamas in sutra 2.23. saucha, santosha, tapa, swadhyaya, ishvara pranidhana. A niyama is an obligation that needs to be followed at all times by a yoga disciple. The five niyamas according to Patanjali are: purity, contentment, austerity, self-study, and surrender to god/meditation upon god. We can find very similar ideals in other Indian philosophies and religions, such as Jainism.

If we understand the concept of Ishvara Pranidhana as surrender to God, and consider it an obligation, then Ishvara should figure in all the activities you perform. It should color the disciple’s activities throughout the day, everyday.

Perhaps it is fair to say that some religious elements can be found in important yoga texts. What about the role of religion in everyday yoga practice? My practice of yoga in Mumbai also suggests that yoga intermingles with religion.

Yoga in Mumbai

oṃ bhūr bhuvaḥ svaḥ

tatsaviturvareṇyaṃ

bhargo devasyadhīmahi

dhiyo yo naḥ pracodayāt…

During my yoga teachers training we started every day in the classroom with the verse written above. For those who do not recognize it, it is the Gayatree mantra, a highly revered mantra from the Rig Veda, dedicated to Savitr, the sun deity. It is cited widely in Vedic and post-Vedic texts, and classical Hindu texts such as the Bhagavad Gita. Our daily prayer didn´t end here, we continued with the shanti mantra for peace, taken from Brihadaranyaka Upanishads. There were also other times when we recited different verses from text belonging to the Hindu tradition.

To deepen my knowledge about yogic postures, I also attended Iyengar yoga regularly, which always started with the invocation to Patanjali. Translated to English it goes something like this: Salutation to the noblest sage, Patanjali, who gave us yoga for serenity of mind, grammar for purity of speech, and medicine for the health of the body. I prostrate before Patanjali, whose upper body has a human form, whose arms hold a conch and disk, and who is crowned by a thousand headed cobra, O incarnation of Adisesa, my salutations to thee. One of my Iyengar yoga teachers who was a Muslim started the class without reciting this mantra, while all my Hindu teachers did.

Reciting prayers, chanting mantras, and learning about the mythological figures represented in the form of various yoga asanas, was for a long time an integral part of my yoga practice. Doing yoga without praying first felt not only incomplete, but also disrespectful. Practicing asanas without thinking about their connection to mythology felt shallow. This was the only form of yoga that I knew, because I had only ever practiced yoga in traditional institutions in Mumbai.

Outside of my yoga practice in India (primarily Mumbai), I have now engaged with yoga in Finland, Norway, and Indonesia. Out of these four countries in total – two in northern Europe and two in South Asia – the practice of yoga in India, and Mumbai specifically, was a significantly different experience from the others. While Bali is a primarily Hindu dominated area, the yoga classes there were much like what I have experienced in the `Christian West´. Whether the focus was on physical postures or mental relaxation, little was said that one could construe as religious.

Upon moving to Bergen, my yoga practice became completely void of any apparent religious – or spiritual – ingredients. The focus shifted from honoring the sun god by reciting all the different Sanskrit names during my suryanamaskar practice, to only thinking about how to best lengthen my muscles. Yoga ceased to be a spiritual practice for me, and became a method to heal my back pain after studying. I will conclude by saying that both forms of yoga have been useful for me in my personal journey. My spiritual yoga practice in Mumbai kept me grounded during challenging times, whereas the physical yoga classes that I attend in Bergen keep me mobile.

Finally, the discussion between yoga and religions gives rise to a multitude of complex questions, such as “what is religion”, “what is the difference between spirituality and religion” and “is Hinduism a religion”. Irrespective of where we wish to draw the lines and how we custom our definitions, my personal experiences suggest that yoga dances with religion at least to some degree in Mumbai, whereas it appears to be stripped almost completely of any elements related to religion, or Hindu traditions, in Norway.

 

Charlotta Osterberg holds a Diploma in Yogic Education, as well as a Diploma in Yogic Therapy, Natural Living and Naturopathy. She has also completed her Masters Degree in Yoga Philosophy. Since 2015 she has been researching roadside shrines in Mumbai as a PhD Candidate at the University of Bergen, Norway. 

 

Welcome

Man doing Pooja
A Mumbaikar going through the motions of prayer at a shrine under a grand tree. To his right is construction debris. Religion in Mumbai.

Welcome.

Holy Mumbai is a blog dedicated to all manner of religion or the religious in Mumbai. As students of the Study of Religion, we seek to explore the crossroads at which the maximum city meets religion.  Continue reading “Welcome”