Mumbai: City of faith and healing

 

An interview by Chintan Girish Modi

CJS at India Gate
Corey J. Sanderson at Mumbai’s iconic Gateway of India. PC: Corey J. Sanderson

Rev. Corey J. Sanderson is the minister of Second Congregational Church, United Church of Christ, in Greenfield (Massachusetts). I first met him on a trip to the United States of America in October 2017 through a common friend who connected us because of our shared interests in interfaith dialogue.  He is an adjunct faculty member at Northwestern Michigan College in Traverse City (Michigan) where he teaches philosophy, ethics, and world religions courses online, and is also an active leader in a number of interfaith activities. He identifies as a liberal, progressive Protestant minister, and is on the Board of Directors for the Council of American-Islamic Relations. We met again on his recent visit to Mumbai, which was part of a larger research trip to India. This conversation, over email, is an attempt to capture his experience of Mumbai as a city with abundant opportunities to explore inter-faith interactions as a source of peacebuilding in urban society.  

When you think of Mumbai, what are the immediate associations that come to mind? What do you miss about the city? What are you relieved you don’t have to deal with?

Leaving Mumbai was a deeply emotional experience for me. While this was my first visit to the city, leaving it felt like saying farewell to a loved one. I didn’t expect to get all choked up in the cab ride to the airport but I did.

The first association I carry with me is the effortless generosity and exuberant hospitality of Mumbaikars. The people I met were so kind, and this made Mumbai feel very real to me. I had read Suketu Mehta’s marvelous book, Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found, and so was half expecting more of a ‘gritty’ city vibe, but the overwhelming kindness of the people is what really defines Mumbai for me.

The second association I have involves the profound religious diversity of the city. Since religious studies is my area of interest and work, I savored as much as I could during my brief stay. The general inclusive and pluralistic social fabric of India is so unique. While inter-religious tensions certainly do exist, and are often exacerbated in and through political maneuvering, there’s a foundational level of comfort and respect for religious traditions from person to person.

I miss the mangoes! I greatly miss the cultural aspects of Mumbai – the food, music, art, language, dance, and social habits as well as my friends who live there. It may sound a bit odd, but I also miss the opportunity I had to continually reflect on my own privilege, values, and understandings of people and life. Being immersed in a radically different culture, and especially so in the crucible of Mumbai, helped give me a wider and deeper view of life. Being in Mumbai right before the monsoon season, I was also glad to be free of the oppressive humidity!

How many months has it been since you visited Mumbai? If I remember well, your visit coincided with the month of Ramzan/Ramadan? What was that experience like? 

It has been four months since I was in Mumbai. Being there for Ramadan was spiritually inspiring and uplifting. I have a deep respect for the emphasis Islam places on the daily practice of the faith. One experience I had captures Ramzan and the importance of sharing in each other’s traditions.

It had been a long hot day. I was travelling alone and was exhausted by dinner time. I figured I’d stay in and relax. Yet as I scrolled through the ‘Events Near Me’ section of Facebook, I noticed an unusually large number of listings for ‘Mohammed Ali Road Street Food.’ Curious, I figured I should check it out. I honestly had no idea about what was waiting for me at the end of that cab ride.

It was a sea of people all up and down Mohammed Ali Road as well as spilling into the adjoining side streets. Every conceivable space was filled with Muslims cooking and buying the most amazing street food I’d ever seen or smelled. At one point, I was in the middle of the crowded street inching my way down the main road. This guy, about 10 meters away, yelled to me, ‘How are you liking this?’ I shouted back, ‘It’s amazing!’ As we reached each other, we gave each other a high five and locked hands. ‘Ramadan Kareem,’ I said to him. He said, ‘Thanks for being here.’ It was a perfect moment.

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Mohammed Ali Road during Ramzan. PC: Corey J. Sanderson

Once the call to prayer came from Minara Masjid, everything immediately slowed down. Shop owners closed down their stalls. People spread blankets on the ground, sat in circles with another, and broke their fast. This iftar experience was spiritually powerful as it highlighted the highly communal nature of the faith. Islam in the United States often picks up a more individualist flavor because of the hyper individualism that is generally in our society.

What made you include Mumbai on your India itinerary? Did you imagine that it would offer you something different from the other cities you went to? 

After reading Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found I just had to see Mumbai. I have always been drawn to paradox and Mumbai seemed to have it galore — beauty and ugliness, wealth and poverty, culture and crassness. Paradox often points to something higher or deeper and so I felt Mumbai would help me understand the psyche of India in a powerful way. I was right!

I had been reading a lot about the Hindu-Muslim riots in late 1992 and early 1993, and wanted to see those places. I’m less interested in the violence and more interested in the healing and peacebuilding that takes place afterwards. Being in those physical spaces helped make my studies feel more concrete and grounded.

The other reason I wanted to visit Mumbai was for the culture. I have loved Bollywood films for many years now and I am currently learning Hindustani Classical Music as well. Mumbai has such great art museums and architecture all around. I felt like the cultural dimensions of Mumbai couldn’t be found in other cities and places.

Which places did you visit during your stay in Mumbai? Which ones were most interesting, meaningful or fascinating for you? 

Since I was primarily interested in the faith life of Indians, my main focus was seeing places of religious significance. I was able to visit most of the larger sites I wanted to see: Mahalaxmi Temple, Haji Ali Dargah, Mumbadevi Temple, Adishwarji Jain Temple, Banganga Tank, Elephanta Island, Saint Thomas Cathedral, both ISKCON temples, Siddhivinayak Temple, Babulnath Temple, the Vipassana Global Pagoda, Mount Mary Church, and many other smaller religious places I stumbled across in my journeys.

CJS at Global Pagoda
Corey J.Sanderson at the Global Pagoda. PC: Corey J. Sanderson
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Mount Mary Church. PC: Corey J. Sanderson

The most spiritually meaningful to me on a personal level were the Hindu temples. The main ones I went to – Mahalaxmi, Mumbadevi, Siddhivinayak, and Babulnath – had a magnetic pull for me. While my own tradition of Western liberal Protestant Christianity often emphasizes a personal, internal, contemplative reflection on the faith so as to strive to live it out in daily practice, the devotional temple life of Hindus offers a more public, communal, celebratory worship experience fueled by sight, sound, touch, and movement. I can sit through temple darshan for hours.

How did the Mumbai of your lived experience match up to or differ from the Mumbai of your imagination? I assume that Bollywood films might have shaped your expectations to a large extent since you watch them regularly. 

 Great question! I had been to India many years before this trip so I wasn’t carrying any naïve notion that Mumbai would be one huge Bollywood dance party. I do admit, however, that Bollywood themes and stories have certainly shaped my views of Indian life and culture. Myth-making is an important element of any society and Bollywood is part of that in some broad ways.

When younger generations move away from more formalized religious communities, the very institutions that carry forward the great myths and teachings about life, the important stories that orient us in this world can be lost. Even as an outsider, I often hear echoes of the Mahabharata and Ramayana in the background of movies and stories. Every culture needs new stories or at least new ways to tell the old stories. This is the same reason why I find Indian literature, generally speaking, to be so mythologically rich. I’m currently reading Akil Kumarasamy’s wonderful debut novel, Half Gods. It speaks powerfully to the universal existential experiences of family, identity, journey and purpose in the same way a good Hindi film does.

Given your long-standing involvement in inter-faith dialogue, what kind of insights did the Mumbai visit offer you? What did you take back to your work?

There’s a high level of ‘religious literacy’ in Mumbai, by which I mean people seem to know a good deal about religious traditions other than their own. This is something we don’t have as much in the United States. Religious literacy is so important because religion is a repository for values and ethics. This is what shapes how people live in the world. Knowing about each other’s spiritual traditions is important in helping us understand what people believe and why they do what they do.

Many people I spoke with commented that neighbor to neighbor, people of different faith backgrounds usually get along great. Yet when politics gets involved, or the media spins a story one particular way, things can quickly become distorted. That’s when blame gets placed, anger flares up, and violence can occur.

While religion is often a major force in shaping people’s identity, Mumbai helped me glimpse at how even the culture can carry along some of these ideals and practices. For instance, Indian hospitality is utterly amazing. I have never experienced anything like it. This unbounded care for the stranger springs from religious roots, yet hospitality has become so enculturated that even non-religious people practice it as well. It has, in essence, become part of the Indian psyche. I don’t see this happening in the United States, as religion is often divorced from culture.

I especially enjoy exploring new ways people are choosing to being spiritual religious.

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The ISKCON Temple. PC: Corey J. Sanderson

Can you be Buddhist and still Hindu like Ambedkar? How did the melting of wax figurines start at Mount Mary? Are multiple religious identities more frequent and meaningful to people? Along the lines of Osho and ISKCON, why are new movements like Brahma Kumaris and Art of Living speaking to people? Syncretism, a blending of religious practices, has a long history in India. Yet the idea of divided separate religions, especially after Partition, seems to be more of a newer emphasis. These are a few topics I keep exploring with people in my church work, my teaching, and even in my wider community engagement.

If you could visit Mumbai again, what aspects of faith would you like to research? Which shrines would you like to pay a visit to? What rituals would you like to participate in?

On my next visit, I want to focus more on some of the Sufi shrines and other related sites. While I made it to Haji Ali Dargah, I would love to learn much more about how non-Muslims understand and revere Sufi saints. The great saints certainly reached out and brought in the marginalized, making it easy for all people to revere them, but I would like to know more. I would also love to explore how Muslims and Hindus have supported each other during their religious festivals.

How did your experience in Mumbai compare with your experiences in the rest of India? It holds the reputation of being cosmopolitan but also carries the scourge of violence between religious communities. 

Before arriving in Mumbai, I spent time in Delhi, Amritsar, Kolkata, and Varanasi. Mumbai was certainly more cosmopolitan in terms of social status, wealth, and culture when compared to other areas I had visited. The rise of western influence in Mumbai is very evident. While this made it a bit more comfortable and familiar in some ways, the western influenced parts were a little less of what I was looking for.

What can India and USA learn from each other in terms of how inter-faith dialogue is operationalized in local communities and at the level of public policy?

I think that we in the United States have far more to learn about inter-religious dialogue and cooperation from people in India than the other way around. Religious diversity is still very new to us on some level. After the 1965 Immigration and Naturalization Act was passed, people began coming to the US from other countries in much higher numbers. They brought with them their food, dress, culture and religions.

For many years, the people who came to the US practiced their religions quietly and often behind closed doors. Then, as they began to meet others, they would start creating small communities. Through the years, temples and mosques would begin appearing in the cultural mindset. Of course, the US already had religious diversity. There were the traditions of the First Peoples and many of the enslaved Africans who were brought here were Muslim. There were a variety of Christians, and some Jews as well and a stream of Chinese from the early part of the last century. The challenge we have in the US is how we create a religiously diverse, pluralistic society. We have the diversity already but we haven’t learned to really live with each other’s traditions the way people in India have.

Since each of our two countries enters interfaith dialog from a different majority religion starting point, Hinduism and Christianity, the way it proceeds actually varies a great deal as people are starting from different places. And locations matter too. Interfaith conversations can happen easily in smaller towns and more rural village settings in India, where people are neighbors in close proximity, but it is much harder to find that in Mumbai.

There’s still so much I need to learn, so I can’t wait to get back to India for more!

 

Chintan Girish Modi is a writer, peace educator and freelance journalist who lives in Mumbai. He works with school teachers and students on addressing Islamophobia, misogyny and homophobia in the classroom and in the wider society, apart from strengthening India-Pakistan dialogue through his initiative Friendships Across Borders: Aao Dosti Karein. He tweets @chintan_connect

 

Haji Ali Dargah: A place of peace, love, respect and unity

Shahazade Akhtar

Haji Ali Dargah in the evneing
Haji Ali Dargah in the evening. PC: Shahazade Akhtar

White dome, beautiful minarets and a huge gate with the blue sky and water in its surroundings, making it a heavenly place. The place does not need any introduction. We all know that it is Haji Ali Dargah, a shrine of a Muslim saint Sayed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari.

After walking around 200 meters on 9-10 feet wide road connecting this beautiful place to the mainland we reach a huge gate. It seems to have opened its arm for each and every one of us. The view of the beautiful dome from this gate is mesmerizing. So many photographers will surround you here, hankering to photograph you with this beautiful background. The interesting thing here is that when they show you some pictures captured by them, it tells you how your picture will turn out. Most of the time they show photos of celebrities that shows their marketing skill as it draws people to get their photo clicked.

As soon as you walked into the main gate you feel something different in you. You experience a different aura there. Your eyes start exploring the place but fix at one place which is the main room where the saint is resting.

Haji Ali Dargah on a cloudy day
Haji Ali Dargah on a cloudy day. PC: Shahazade Akhtar

It has been almost 10 years since I have been in Mumbai. I regularly visit this place. After completing my prayer in the main room where the saint is resting, I try to find a place where I can sit and give some time to myself as this place gives me an opportunity for self-reflection . I always find mental peace and feel rejuvenated whenever I visit this peaceful place.

minraret of haji ali mosque
Minaret of Haji Ali mosque. PC: Shahazade Akhtar

There is a space for Qawwals (the religious singers). The crowd surrounds them to listen to words of praise (for the saints) in beautiful tunes. I have seen people moving their legs and hands in rhythm to the tune. Even people from different countries get attached with the Qawwalis (religious song) and they also swing their body to the tune. The amazing thing here is that the foreigners do not know Hindi or Urdu but magically they relate to the tune.

People from every corner of the country come here to visit and for votive offerings, praying and spending some time. People come here with their friends, family and sometimes alone also. This way they get a chance to spend some quality time with their loved ones which, most of the time, becomes difficult because of our modern and busy lives. People go into the water despite knowing that stones with sharp edges will welcome them. They are not afraid of this and get into the water to enjoy and have fun. It is always good to see people with happy faces. This becomes a special day especially for the children.

India is a country of rich culture and diversity is its uniqueness. I find people from different walks of life visiting this place. I have seen people with turbans on their heads, people with cross pendent around their necks, people with tilak (vermillion mark) on their forehead, people with black skin, people with white skin, men, women, transgender etc. at this place. This place teaches me so many things. Every saint has opened his arms for everyone irrespective of their religion, caste, gender, race etc. They teach us to accept and respect everyone. You would not find the word ‘hate’ when you read their lives. When these great saints have not shown different behaviour to different people then why do we? Why are we disrespecting people on the basis of caste, religion, race, gender, language etc.? Why don’t we learn from the lives of these great saints and spread love?  Let us all take this learning and make this world a beautiful place where each and everyone is accepted and treated with love and respect. The world needs this change. Let us come forward and make this happen. Do not just visit such places; try to learn from the lives of these saints also.

Shahazade Akhtar is a management graduate working in the development sector in Mumbai. He likes to travel, read and watch movies. 

Yoga in Mumbai: a religious practice?

Charlotta Osterberg

yoga
The author practicing Yoga during Mahashivaratri in Mumbai. PC: Charlotta Osterberg

When I was 23-years old I moved from Finland to Mumbai with the intention to work with an NGO for three months. However, life had other plans for me and I settled in India for almost 10 years. During a challenging period when I was looking for something meaningful to do in the city, I attended my first yoga class, primarily just to have something to keep myself busy with. I never knew this would become my fulltime passion. Following this one class, I immersed myself in four years of practice and study of yoga.

What I learned during these years, apart from physical postures, was that traditional yoga is a philosophy, not a form of exercise, and further, that the relationship between yoga and religion is complicated. I will say a few words about the philosophy and the scriptures before returning to my experience in Mumbai.

Yoga and religion in the sutras

Yoga is one of the six orthodox schools of Indian philosophy – also sometimes referred to as Hindu philosophy. Yoga philosophy is derived from Samkhya philosophy, which is atheistic in nature and thus does not acknowledge the idea of a god. Peculiarly, the Patanjali Yoga Sutra – the “bible of yoga” as I like to call it, mentions the word Ishvara a few times. This gives rise to the question whether yoga is a theistic version of Samkhya philosophy.

The word Ishvara stems from the Sanskrit root Ish, which means “to govern”, but it also includes “the capacity to impart grace”. The term Ishvara can refer to a supreme god, or a local deity (Ishta-deva).

Ishvara is mentioned for example in sutra 1.23, wherein Patanjali gives us a shortcut to liberation (samadhi). Instead of persistent practice and non-attachment, the slow and steady path towards liberation, Patanjali gives an option and states Ishvara pranidhana va.  Depending on how we interpret this sutra, god can be ascribed the status of a supreme controller, or not.

Va simply means “or” since the sutra is providing an alternative to what has been previously mentioned. Pranidhana literally means, “putting something down, or “placing something nearby”. Commonly it is understood as “surrender”. “Ishvara Pranidhana” can therefore be interpreted as “complete surrender to God”, or more literally “placing oneself by God.”

If we interpret the word pranidhana in this way, god is given a somewhat similar meaning to that of a god in various religions. When a yoga disciple places himself/herself in full humility at the disposal of Ishvara, then Ishvara is entwined towards the disciple and imparts his grace onto him/her. The success of the yoga disciple depends upon the mercy of god.

However, pranidhana is also sometimes translated as “deep meditation”, and the sentence then means “meditation on god” (instead of surrender to god). If we are meditating on the concept of god, and through our individual meditative practice reach enlightenment, god is given a more symbolic status. God is not necessarily separate from ourselves, or someone giving us blessings, but a symbol used for our single-pointed concentration that will lead us towards liberation. This translation lets yoga keep a somewhat more secular nature. However, it doesn’t change the fact that god is mentioned.

The words Ishvar Pranidhana also figures as one of the five Niyamas in sutra 2.23. saucha, santosha, tapa, swadhyaya, ishvara pranidhana. A niyama is an obligation that needs to be followed at all times by a yoga disciple. The five niyamas according to Patanjali are: purity, contentment, austerity, self-study, and surrender to god/meditation upon god. We can find very similar ideals in other Indian philosophies and religions, such as Jainism.

If we understand the concept of Ishvara Pranidhana as surrender to God, and consider it an obligation, then Ishvara should figure in all the activities you perform. It should color the disciple’s activities throughout the day, everyday.

Perhaps it is fair to say that some religious elements can be found in important yoga texts. What about the role of religion in everyday yoga practice? My practice of yoga in Mumbai also suggests that yoga intermingles with religion.

Yoga in Mumbai

oṃ bhūr bhuvaḥ svaḥ

tatsaviturvareṇyaṃ

bhargo devasyadhīmahi

dhiyo yo naḥ pracodayāt…

During my yoga teachers training we started every day in the classroom with the verse written above. For those who do not recognize it, it is the Gayatree mantra, a highly revered mantra from the Rig Veda, dedicated to Savitr, the sun deity. It is cited widely in Vedic and post-Vedic texts, and classical Hindu texts such as the Bhagavad Gita. Our daily prayer didn´t end here, we continued with the shanti mantra for peace, taken from Brihadaranyaka Upanishads. There were also other times when we recited different verses from text belonging to the Hindu tradition.

To deepen my knowledge about yogic postures, I also attended Iyengar yoga regularly, which always started with the invocation to Patanjali. Translated to English it goes something like this: Salutation to the noblest sage, Patanjali, who gave us yoga for serenity of mind, grammar for purity of speech, and medicine for the health of the body. I prostrate before Patanjali, whose upper body has a human form, whose arms hold a conch and disk, and who is crowned by a thousand headed cobra, O incarnation of Adisesa, my salutations to thee. One of my Iyengar yoga teachers who was a Muslim started the class without reciting this mantra, while all my Hindu teachers did.

Reciting prayers, chanting mantras, and learning about the mythological figures represented in the form of various yoga asanas, was for a long time an integral part of my yoga practice. Doing yoga without praying first felt not only incomplete, but also disrespectful. Practicing asanas without thinking about their connection to mythology felt shallow. This was the only form of yoga that I knew, because I had only ever practiced yoga in traditional institutions in Mumbai.

Outside of my yoga practice in India (primarily Mumbai), I have now engaged with yoga in Finland, Norway, and Indonesia. Out of these four countries in total – two in northern Europe and two in South Asia – the practice of yoga in India, and Mumbai specifically, was a significantly different experience from the others. While Bali is a primarily Hindu dominated area, the yoga classes there were much like what I have experienced in the `Christian West´. Whether the focus was on physical postures or mental relaxation, little was said that one could construe as religious.

Upon moving to Bergen, my yoga practice became completely void of any apparent religious – or spiritual – ingredients. The focus shifted from honoring the sun god by reciting all the different Sanskrit names during my suryanamaskar practice, to only thinking about how to best lengthen my muscles. Yoga ceased to be a spiritual practice for me, and became a method to heal my back pain after studying. I will conclude by saying that both forms of yoga have been useful for me in my personal journey. My spiritual yoga practice in Mumbai kept me grounded during challenging times, whereas the physical yoga classes that I attend in Bergen keep me mobile.

Finally, the discussion between yoga and religions gives rise to a multitude of complex questions, such as “what is religion”, “what is the difference between spirituality and religion” and “is Hinduism a religion”. Irrespective of where we wish to draw the lines and how we custom our definitions, my personal experiences suggest that yoga dances with religion at least to some degree in Mumbai, whereas it appears to be stripped almost completely of any elements related to religion, or Hindu traditions, in Norway.

 

Charlotta Osterberg holds a Diploma in Yogic Education, as well as a Diploma in Yogic Therapy, Natural Living and Naturopathy. She has also completed her Masters Degree in Yoga Philosophy. Since 2015 she has been researching roadside shrines in Mumbai as a PhD Candidate at the University of Bergen, Norway. 

 

मुंबई लोकल भजन मंडली

Anil Kumar Valmiki writes about the bhajan mandalis in Mumbai’s local commuter trains. A bhajan mandali  in a local train is a group of commuters who sing devotional songs and chants, accompanied by instruments such as the dhol (drums) and manjiras (cymbals), on their way to work. For those unfamiliar with Mumbai, a quick search on Youtube for ‘bhajans in Mumbai local’ will take you to videos of this phenomena. And here is an article in the Indian Express about one such group. Anil paints  a picture of his own experiences as he travels to work each morning. Is the bhajan mandali all about devotion only?

अनिल कुमार वाल्मीकि

मुंबई लोकल, वैसे तो इसे मुंबई की लाइफ लाइन कहते हैं लेकिन यह शब्द सुनते ही सबसे पहले जहन में एक और तस्वीर बनती है, वो है भीड़ से भरी ट्रेन की जिसमे इंसान जानवरो की तरह भरा हुआ होता है, सांस लेने की भी जगह नही होती है लेकिन फिर भी हर स्टेशन पर लोग चढ़ते हैं।

भगवान हर जगह है और उसको कभी भी और कहीं भी याद कर सकते हैं। इसका जीता-जागता उदाहरण मुम्बई लोकल में देखने को मिलता है। लोकल ट्रेन में हर त्योहार मनाया जाता है चाहे वो दीवाली हो, दशहरा या नवरात्री हो, लोग ट्रेन में ही मना लेते हैं। यहां तक कि महिलाएं तो डांडिया, गरबा भी खेलती है ट्रेन में। रोज सुबह शाम भजन भी होते हैं ट्रेन में। आप इसको धार्मिक ट्रेन भी बोल सकते हैं।

एक दिन मै लोकल ट्रेन से विरार से ऑफिस जा रहा था। अचानक डफ़ली और मंजीरे की आवाज़ आने लगी, मैने देखा कि डिब्बे के दूसरे छोर पर कुछ लोग भजन गा रहे हैं। देखकर दिल खुश हो गया मन मे सोचा की कितने धार्मिक हैं ये लोग, खचाखच भारी ट्रेन में जहा आदमी को सीधा खड़ा रहने के लिए भी पूरी जानसे ताकत लगानी पड़ रही है ये लोग भगवान का भजन कर रहे हैं। दादर आने से पहले उनका भजन कार्यक्रम समाप्त हो गया और प्रसाद भी बाटा गया, जिसे देखकर तो खुशी का ठिकाना ही नही रहा। हालाकि मुझ तक प्रसाद तो नही पहुचा लेकिन फिर भी दिल में बहुत मिठास घुल गयी थी। अगले दिन फिर वही नज़ारा और दिल में वही खुशी। वो कहते हैं ना कि दूर के ढोल सुहाने लगते हैं। बस वैसा ही कुछ मेरे साथ हो रहा था क्योंकि मैं डिब्बे के इस छोर पर खड़ा होता था और भजन दूसरे छोर पर होते थे।

अब हुआ क्या की एक दिन मैं इत्तफाक से डिब्बे की उसी साइड में चढ़ गया था जहां पर वो लोग भजन करते थे। नालासोपारा तक तो सब नॉर्मल था लेकिन उसके बाद उन्होंने जगह बनाना शुरू की, मतलब भजन मंडली के सदस्यों के खड़े रहने के लिए जगह करना, जो लोग उनके पीछे खड़े थे उनको और पीछे धकेल दिया, उनमे मैं भी शामिल था। ये आलम था कि जो हाथ ऊपर था वो नीचे नही आ सकता था और जो हाथ नीचे था उसको तो हिला भी नही सकता था, और ये सिर्फ मेरा नही बल्कि ट्रेन में जितने लोग खड़े थे सबका यही हाल था। अब भजन कार्यक्रम शुरू हुआ। एक डफ़ली और दो मंजीरे, डफ़ली की आवाज़ से तो इतनी समस्या नही थी लेकिन दो-दो मंजीरों की आवाज़ सीधे कान के पर्दे पर जाकर टकरा रही थी, शोर बर्दाश्त के बाहर जा रहा था, कान में सीटियां बजने लगी थी। मै सोच रहा था कि हे भगवान मै कहाँ आकर फंस गया। क्योंकि हिलने को भी जगह नही थी इसलिये कहीं और जाकर भी खड़ा नही हो सकता था। मैंने बाकी लोगो की तरफ देखा तो समझ में आया कि मेरी तरह वो भी परेशान हैं। मेरे पास एक बुजुर्ग खड़े थे मैने उनसे कहा कि, “अंकल ये लोग इतना शोर क्यूँ करते है? शांती से भजन नहीं कर सकते क्या?” तो अंकल ने कहा कि “बेटा ये लोग भक्ति नही कर रहे हैं बल्कि अपना टाइमपास करने के लिए भजन कर रहे हैं”  तो मैंने कहा कि “लोगों को इस शोर से इतनी तकलीफ़ होती है फिर भी कोई इनसे कुछ कहता क्यूँ नही है?” तो उन्होंने कहा कि “ज्यादातर लोग तो अकेले ही सफर करते हैं और ये लोग ग्रुप में, अब ग्रुप के सामने एक आदमी की कहाँ चलने वाली”. अंकल ने बिल्कुल सही कहा था क्यूंकि ऐसा मैने कई बार देखा भी था। अब मैने ये सोच लिया था कि चाहे सीट मिले या न मिले लेकिन मै कभी भजन वाले डिब्बे में नही चढ़ूंगा।

एक दिन मुझे सर्दी हो रही थी इसलिए सर में बहुत दर्द हो रहा था और उसी दिन गलती से मै भजन वाले डिब्बे में चढ़ गया। एक तो सर पहले ही दर्द से फटा जा रहा था ऊपर से मंजीरे की टन-टन से और दर्द बढ़ गया। मैने हेडफोन लगाया लेकिन उससे भी कोई फायदा नही हुआ। मै ही जनता हूँ कि एक घंटे तक उस शोर को कैसे झेला था मैंने। उसकी वजह से मेरा पूरा दिन खराब गया था।

एक और बात, जब ट्रेन स्टेशन से निकलती है तो कुछ लोग पूरा जोर लगाकर धार्मिक और देशभक्ति के  जयकारे लगाते हैं और फिर बाकी लोगों की तरफ देखते हैं किसने उनके बाद  जयकारा या नही और जिसने जयकारा नही लगाया होता है उसकी तरफ तो इतनी नफरत से देखते हैं कि जैसे वो कोई पाकिस्तानी हो। मेरी ये समझ में नही आता कि गला फ़ाड़ कर चिल्लाने से ही देशभक्ति साबित होती है क्या?। या ज्यादा जोर से मंजीरा बजाने से ही धर्म के प्रति श्रद्धा दिखायी जा सकती है क्या?। कितनी बार लोगों का ऑफिस की या घरेलू परेशानियों की वजह से मूड खराब होता है, स्वास्थ खराब होता है उस वक़्त इंसान किसी से बात भी नही करना चाहता है सिर्फ चुपचाप अपने घर या दफ्तर जाना पहुचना चाहता है। लेकिन ये लोग है कि अपने टाइमपास के आगे लोगों को हो रही तकलीफ के बारे में जरा भी नही सोचते हैं। जो इनके खिलाफ बोलता है उसे बोलने नही देते हैं। क्योंकि वो जानते है कि कोई उनका कुछ बिगाड़ नही सकता। जो लोग ट्रेन से सफर नही करते उनके लिए ये बात कोई मायने नही रखती लेकिन जरा उनके बारे में सोचिये जो रोज सुबह शाम इस धार्मिक शोर का शिकार होते हैं।

अब सवाल ये है कि क्या किसीको धर्म के नाम पर शोर करने की आज़ादी है? और अगर आज़ादी नही है तो इसे रोका क्यों नही जाता है।

अनिल कुमार वाल्मीकि मुंबई के नागरिक हैं जो सामाजिक विषयों पर कविता लिखना पसंद करते हैं।

Anil Kumar Valmiki is a citizen of Mumbai and likes to write poetry on social issues.

Aala re Aala: Ganpati comes to town!

Rohan Chavan

On September 13, 2018 you will find big pandaals (the temporary tents made of plastic and bamboos on roads or in vacant spaces in communities, height and length  of around 30 to 50 ft) in almost every street of Mumbai. Mumbaikars celebrate the festival of Ganesh Chaturti, the birth anniversary of Lord Ganpati. This festival starts with creating murtis (idols) of Ganpati. One month before this festival you will find hundreds of artists making idols of Ganpati in all sizes and shapes, from 12 inches to 25 to 30 feet. In the past few years the shapes and designs of these idols have changed from simple traditional murtis to fancy TV serial and Hindi movies character. For example, a few years ago a Marathi serial ‘Jai Malhar’ was popular among Marathi viewers. That year many Ganpati murtis were made in the shape of the leading character of the serial Malhar. Traditionally, these murtis were made of clay but with increasing size the artists have started using Plaster of Paris.

pandaal
A pandaal in progress. PC: Rohan Chavan

This has been one of the seasonal employment options for artists followed by Navratri, when they start making murtis of the Goddess Durga. One of the towns in the outskirts of Mumbai, Pen is famous for these murtis. Most of the murti sellers set-up boards outside their shops saying “specially made murtis from Pen”.

Along with murti seller’s pandaals you will also find pandaals of different mandals. Mandals are the unregistered or registered group of people, youth groups, group of particular samaaj or caste who celebrates festivals like Ganpati and Navratri together and organize the entire event on behalf of the community, with some help – financial or non-financial from other members of community. Before the start of the festival, mandals undertake elaborate decoration. Some of the Ganesh mandals in Mumbai are famous for their decorative sets. These mandals spend lots of money and sometimes invite movie set artist to set up decoration for their mandal’s Ganpati. Most of these sarvajanik (community/public) mandals are celebrating this festival for more than 50 years. Every year on this occasion they collect donations from locals, politicians and other people who want to promote their products or businesses. They provide space for advertisements to these donors and they get money to celebrate these festivals.

Most of the karyakartas (members/volunteers/workers) of these mandals are youth. They work day and night to have everything in place. They spend those 11 days in that pandaal as part of their devotion to Ganpati and as their contribution to the mandals. The entire locality looks busy throughout the day and night for those two weeks.

Different mandals’ Ganpatis have different stories which attract devotees for e.g. Lalbaugchaa Raja is known as navasala paavnaaraa (the one who fulfills wishes of the devotee). People stand in queue for hours just to take blessings. There are few famous mandals like Ganesh Galli and Lalbaughcha Raja where sometimes people spend an entire day in a queue to take darshan. Bollywood celebrities also take part in this. During the entire month, one can find different kinds of energy on the streets of Mumbai. Most of the streets are decorated with light shows, people standing in queues with full enthusiasm and loud speakers playing songs and arati of Ganpati. This city is anyway one of the busiest cities but it gets even busier on festivals like these.

Rohan is a veteran Mumbaikar.

But for a little Dahi

Shachi Phadke

While the rest of India focuses on the midnight festivities of Krishna Janmashtami, or the birth of Lord Krishna, Mumbai focuses instead on the next day, when the celebrations of Dahi Handi take place.

Dahi Handi, now a cross between religious festival and a team sport, involves a group of mostly young men creating a human pyramid, up to eight or nine layers tall, in order to reach and break an earthen pot or Handi, to get at the sweet yogurt or Dahi that it is filled with. The first team of young men or women to reach and break open the Dahi Handi, is awarded the prize money for each such feat. The higher the Handi is placed, more the prize money awarded. This contest now leads the whole of Mumbai to participate in the festival where Dahi Handis are placed higher and higher each year.

Dahi Handi
The earthen pot a.k.a. Dahi Handi hanging at a suitable height PC: Shachi Phadke

Dahi Handi does try and evoke the idea of young Krishna, whose natkhat or naughty disposition led to gathering his friends from the village where he was growing up, making human pyramids with them, and reaching and eating the yogurt and butter hung up high in earthen pots, with the sole purpose of keeping it out of the hands of little kids such as himself.  This festival, calling upon the young and playful persona of the deity rather than the more popular warrior or philosopher persona, has been a major part of the city’s landscape of public religious festivals and it certainly gives it a boisterous character.

The Govinda is a moniker used for the young men who participate in the human pyramid, and also is another name for Lord Krishna and so is rather appropriate. The Govindas start very early on the day after the Krishna’s Janm or birth, which gets celebrated at midnight. They have been practicing months ahead of time in order to participate. The Govindas gather in the morning and get ready to go to a few of the Dahi Handis in and around their neighbourhood, and if they are really good, to go far and wide to gather the prize money. The loud rhythm of Dhols or Nashik drums follows them around.  They start with their own Handi, in their locality and their neighborhood, where a crowd gathers to cheer them on. Usually, it rains. This is slap bang in the middle of the monsoon, so the pitter-patter of warm rain helps to keep the Govinda’s cool while they make the pyramid as tall as they can. If the rain is not around that year, and there has been no drought, then the locals would throw buckets of water on them. It feels like it’s rude. It isn’t. It’s actually part of the fun. In the chants and calls of the Govindas, which they sing and call out while raising the pyramid; there tend to be ones specifically asking for water along with the cheers. For instance, check out the song Govinda Re Gopala from the 1991 Marathi movie Hamal De Dhamal

The Hindi and Marathi movie industries which are based out of Mumbai do tend to jump on the Dahi Handi bandwagon. In the 1963 Shammi Kapoor starrer, Bluff Master, for example, the song Govinda Aala Re Aala became a classic. The festival is used often times to show the natkhat hero, impressing his heroine or to establishing himself as one of the common folk, going around breaking the Handis. In Mach Gaya Shor Sari Nagri, for instance, Amitabh Bachchan is the natkhat hero. Despite the unrealistically hefty hero being the top-most layer of the Govindas and the breaker of the Handi, the honour is normally reserved for the littlest of the lot. These songs will be played over and over again by the band and the dhol pathaks which accompany the Govindas all day.

The smallest of the Govindas, usually a skinny pre-teen, is the one on top of the pyramid and will actually break the Handi, as he/she is the representative of little Lord Krishna as well as the lightest weight for the rest of the pyramid to bear. A crowd of their squad surrounds the Govindas for encouragement and dance very ungracefully on the beat of the dhol. They are also the buffer layer that will catch the Govindas incase their pyramid fails and they all tumble to the ground. Each team gets three tries to get to the Handi and claim their prize. If the troupe is indeed successful, the prizes gathered during the day get distributed amongst the Govindas, your share depending on your position within the pyramid. Sometimes they come back bruised and injured, their tumble being too hard. The more the risks you took the more the prizes and also the more the falls. With increasing prize money and risks, governmental bodies have been trying to lay some rules, trying to set a minimum age of participation, limit the number of layers allowed as well as total height of the pyramid; and the highest courts of the land are trying to debate the matter, contemplating tradition and safety.

Govindas
Six layered pyramid in progress with the buffer of catchers. PC: Shachi Phadke

As one of the most visually striking festivals and communal sporting activities within the city, the Dahi Handi starts off the festival season in the Hindu religious calendar in Mumbai, starting the city off on the upcoming hullabaloo which will take us over on the beat of the dhols.

Shachi is a dyed-in-the wool Mumbai lover who wanders the streets of Mumbai aimlessly. In her free time, she works in the development sector. 

Gaitonde’s Bombay or Our Bombay?

Religion and Violence in Sacred Games

Sumanya Anand Velamur

When I began my PhD, people would ask me what my topic was. In the interest of brevity, I would say Religion and Violence in Mumbai, the umbrella theme that my PhD was nested in. Prodded to explain more, I would say I was specifically working on religious residential spaces and residents’ memories of violent events like the Bombay (Mumbai was called Bombay until 1995, when the name was changed to Mumbai) riots. Many of these well-meaning, sometimes even officious, people would then tell me what they thought I should be studying. More often than not this would include the violence perpetrated by the underworld. I found this interesting. In the context of religion, violence and Mumbai, and specifically in the context of the Bombay riots that took place in the aftermath of the Babri Masjid demolition, why was this a recurrent theme amongst my middle class, (possibly) upper caste acquaintances? One reason could have been that this was really the case and that they had hit the nail on the head. After all, the underworld is universally acknowledged to have orchestrated the bomb blasts in 1993. But probe just a little deeper and one realizes that gangsters of Bombay could only explain part of the story. Why then this insistence that to understand the riots, one had to understand Bombay’s underworld?

Sacred Games, the Netflix Original series from India, explores the trope that religion and violence are indeed linked to organized crime in inextricable ways. Based on Vikram Chandra’s novel of the same name, the series is set in 80s and 90s Mumbai and the gangwars of that time. Given the superlative reviews it has garnered, it is important to reflect on how the series manages to portray this complex relationship. Why? Bollywood, or the Hindi film industry, is not new to the gangster movie genre. But most often, such films focuses on one man’s (or woman’s as is the case in Haseena Parkar) rise to become a gang leader;almost eulogistic stories of rags to riches where the individual is but a victim of extreme circumstance. In Ajay Devgn’s Once upon a Time in Mumbaai, for example, the story revolves around two underworld dons, characters fashioned on Haji Mastan and Dawood Ibrahim. Sacred Games too, begins with Gaitonde’s story from being a poor village boy to a gang leader in Mumbai. However, primarily it is the story of Mumbai  and not that of Gaitonde. With a show this realistic, Sacred Games’ credibility increases and with it, its responsibility towards an honest portrayal.

God and religion take center stage in this series on Mumbai’s underworld in the 1990s. Some of the episode titles, Ashwathama for instance, are borrowed from Hindu mythology or mythological characters, stories that find themselves woven into the narrative. The opening dialogue in the first episode has Gaitonde asking rhetorically, “Do you believe in God?” Answering the question himself, he says, “God doesn’t give a fuck?” In his account of his life, he uses religion as a metaphor. Escaping, for example, from the religion of his childhood home, characterized by his Brahmin mendicant father, to the new religion of Bombay. The series also contains religious iconography. For instance, Ramanand Sagar’s TV series Ramayan makes an appearance to suggest, among other things, the mass consumption of religion. The fault lines within Gaitonde’s own gang seem to be on religious lines and therefore, the cause of his downfall also.

But what does all this have to do with violence? Gaitonde tells us, “A chicken bone in a Hindu hotel can cause more damage than a gangster; it’s been happening since pre-independence days. To create a rift amongst the Muslims, dump pork in a Mosque. To incite riots among the Hindus, dump beef in a temple. From the Hindu hotel I learned how religion can fuck anyone over.” I believe it is this aspect that my acquaintances refer to when they tell me that to understand religion and violence in Mumbai, I have to understand the workings of the underworld. The idea that religion provides an opportunity for gangsters to manipulate people for private ends is not new. And I dare say there is more than an iota of truth to it. But the assertion takes away from the fact that a large part of humanity was thus manipulated.

Organised crime, as Sacred Games demonstrates, provides us a platform on which we normalize violence. The 80s and 90s are often thought of as a violent time because of the underworld, and therefore, communal violence a normal, even logical occurrence of the period.  I remember an incident when I was in school. I was probably in the 7th or 8th standard. One of the things that happened at morning assembly was that a student read out the day’s headlines, first in English and then in Hindi. On this particular day, the Hindi news reader decided to spice things up a bit and sang the headlines to the tune of popular Bollywood numbers of the day. I distinctly remember her voice booming into the microphone, “Kandivili mein kal, goliyan chali…” (shots were fired in Kandivili yesterday), in the tune of “churake dil mera, goriya chali…” ( the fair one walks after having stolen my heart). Retrospectively, I remember thinking what a morbid headline to set to the tune of a romantic number. This normalizing allows us to judge the events of the times with a different yardstick. But more importantly, to claim that someone like Gaitonde was to blame for the riots, was to absolve oneself of any crime (acts of omission as well as commission) because Gaitonde’s Bombay seems so far removed from the Bombay of my acquaintances.

Sumanya Anand Velamur is a PhD candidate at the Department of Archaeology, History, Culture Studies and Religion in the University of Bergen.

Welcome

Man doing Pooja
A Mumbaikar going through the motions of prayer at a shrine under a grand tree. To his right is construction debris. Religion in Mumbai.

Welcome.

Holy Mumbai is a blog dedicated to all manner of religion or the religious in Mumbai. As students of the Study of Religion, we seek to explore the crossroads at which the maximum city meets religion.  Continue reading “Welcome”